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You grow up in the United States thinking you’re the absolute best at sandwiches. No one puts stuff between bread like us. Then you eat your first bánh mì, and it shakes you to your core.

As with any respectable sandwich, the bread in Chao’s bánh mì is much more than a support structure. The Vietnamese-style baguette is sweet and chewy, a bit spongier than the usual French loaf.