4 at Woodlawn; 2, 5 at 233rd St. Admirers place seashells, rocks, even cigars on Herman Melville's relatively understated tombstone, located in the Catalpa plot, one of the cemetery's oldest.

It’s an account of the American story that’s underground, literally. Woodlawn Cemetery, in the north Bronx, has, since its founding in 1863, been a final resting place that didn’t exclude or ...